James Turnbull-Director

Even with my Dad being so keen on climbing, I wasn't bothered as a youth. However something changed when I was about 22, and since then climbing has basically ruled my life and thoughts. I would love to say I'm also into lots of other outdoor activities but in reality, when I'm doing them I just wish I was climbing. I feel extremely lucky to be psyched for all styles of climbing so it never gets dull. Winter is grit and Scottish winter, summer is limestone trad and sport, mountain crags and of course the Alps are always in my thoughts; bigger is always better!

I seem to have acquired a wide range of good ticks that I have somehow managed to get up without actually being very good. If you’re motivated and have a go its amazing what happens (being tall helps too). I have useful beta for lots of classics such as The Nose on El Cap, Cassin Route on The Piz Badile, North Face of the Eiger, Ginat on Les Droites, Westgrat of the Salbit and have an in depth, detailed knowledge of routes all over the Peak District. So for tips on all sorts of routes call in and see me. I would say the only type of climbing I'm not keen on is indoors -  it feels wrong, I sweat a lot and you have to be strong instead of just reaching past the hard bits! Alex Lowe famously said once “The best climber is the one having the most fun”, well I must be awesome!

  • Best Experiences: North Face of the Eiger and Masters Edge in the same week was awesome! Also climbing Grooved Arête with my wife Danni!
  • Best Onsights:
    • Trad: E5s (the easy ones!) and the odd E6 flash
    • Winter: VI, 7 a few (I still get scared!)
    • Sport: 7c all at Raven Tor when it rains
    • Boulder: 7C (I lanked it so 7B really!)
    • Indoors : Who cares?

Read James' articles and reviews

2 thoughts on “James Turnbull-Director”

  • Jake Shaw

    Dear James,
    We have never met but I know of you. I need some advice and would very much like to meet up for a chat over a coffee or a beer. Please don't ask too many questions which would spoil it! I plan to be in your area over the summer (my schedule is flexible) and am very much hoping you can find half an hour for me.

Leave a Reply