What do I need to know about my tent?
Are you a car camper, a back packer, a long distance walker, an alpinist or a mountain marathon runner (or none of these)? Everyone needs something different from a tent. Are you only interested in weight and comfort will be incidental? Or are you are going to be looking for a tent that can be carried easily yet will have space to live in?
Fabric
- Nylon (very strong, light, but sags when wet and has lower UV resistance).
- Polyester (not as strong, better UV resistance, taut when wet).
Fabric coatings
- Polyurethane (PU). Coats the inside of the tent fabric. The more you pay the more coatings you get.
- Silicone Elastomer. A non organic polymer that bonds with the tent fabric so that it can't peel like PU. Multiple benefits include much more dirt/UV resistance, increased water repellence, wear resistance and it wont freeze so can always be packed away (Note: Also highly flammable).
- A combination of Silicone Elastomer and PU - PU on the inside, Silicone Elastomer on the outside. This is the most durable combination and means that manufacturers can tape the seams on the inside of the flysheet.
Sleeves, Poles and Clips
- Poles should be made from high quality aluminium.
- If the poles are going to be of different lengths they should be easily identifiable by colour (with corresponding colours on the sleeve or clip it will be attached to)
- Clips are often lighter, help increase air circulation and mean the tent is faster to put up.
- Sleeves are harder to break and maintain tension throughout the tent more effectively.
The Tent Inner
- Polyester panels - better for cold climates
- Mesh panels - better for warmer climates where air circulation is desirable.
- Combination - Mesh panels in the ceiling of the inner on some tents can be opened and closed to allow different levels of air circulation to be achieved.
Groundsheet/Footprints
Normally made from Nylon with a PU coating. As the most important aspect of their design, many modern groundsheets have been made lightweight. This means they are often not up to repeated use on harsher ground. A tent footprint is an extra layer that goes underneath and will help the built-in groundsheet last a bit longer - we'd recommend using them all the time if you can afford the weight penalty, only leaving it behind when saving weight is of utmost importance. A specially made footprint, designed by the manufacturer to fit the tent will be best - they are sized slightly smaller than the tent groundsheet so water doesn't collect on them, and will clip to the pole attachments at the corners. If a specific footprint isn't available you can cut your own from one of those old orange plastic survival bags, it'll do the job reasonably well but might be a bit heavier.
Tent Pegs
All of the tents we sell come with high-quality tent pegs. Some very lightweight tents are supplied with needle-like titanium skewers that may struggle with tough ground and/or pull out easily - if this is the case it is well worth carrying at least a couple of decent angular alloy pegs for the main points. If you're likely to be pitching your tent on snow (or soft sand) then extra wide Blizzard Stakes or Tough Stakes are available, or you can try burying stuffsacks filled with snow (or sand).
Geodesic or a Tunnel Tent
Geodesics are free-standing and stronger in high winds. The inner tent can feel roomier if tensioned. They often pitch inner first, which can be a disadvantage in wet weather. Tunnel tents are lighter (as they have fewer poles and pegs) and usually pitch outer first, which is good in bad weather. Tunnel tents can also be used with just the outer if necessary. If facing the right way into the wind they are often very stable, but are never quite as stable as geodesics, especially if the wind direction is changeable!
What to think about when buying?
- It's better to see for yourself. Visit a shop where they have a range of tents and the space to put them up.
- Weight - manufacturer weights can be misleading. If weight is really important, ask to weigh the tent in the shop.
- Get in the tent - manufacturer dimension diagrams do not often give a true impression of what the inside of the tent is like. Often there is extra room that you did not think about or (if you are over 2 metres tall) there may be the opposite problem.
- Gimmicks - some good some bad, all add a bit to the weight and cost. Interior pockets, tent lofts for stowing things in the roof of the tent, windows to check the weather, glow in the dark zip toggles for a faster exit at night, reflective guylines so you can see your tent from a distance (or not trip over them), it's up to you what's important!
Care Tips
- Tent repair kits weigh very little and can salvage a camping trip from disaster. Even the very best tents can be damaged with careless use or savage weather..
- Clean dirty tent fabric with warm water, an outdoor fabric cleaner and a sponge (not a brush).
- Limit the amount of time your tent is in the sun as much as possible. Pitching in shade, covering it with a tarp and taking it down are all good ways to increase the tents lifespan.
- Always dry your tent as soon as you can. Try not to leave it packed wet as much as possible and if you can store your tent unpacked it will last longer.