I arrived Friday evening at the boat in Stromness after train, plane and automobile. Dad and I had planned on two days in which to try and climb the Old Man. Before my friend Tom arrived, to set sail south back to the Scottish mainland. The forecast for the weekend was not good and the week before also had been quite poor.
We woke on Saturday to see the hills of Hoy covered in cloud, with frequent blustery rain showers blowing through. It was obvious there was to be no climbing and Sunday’s forecast was also poor. However, the weather for Monday looked ok. When we checked our itinerary we realised the third crew member, Tom, did not arrive until Monday evening so we had one more day. It was still worth a try. We caught the 7:45am passenger ferry from Stromness to Moaness on Hoy with our folding bikes, in dry but windy conditions.
Once on Hoy we rode 6 miles along the quiet roads to Rackwick Bay where the road ends and the path begins. After reading the famous climbers’ warning sign we walked over the cliff tops where you catch the first sight of the Old Man. Once at the view point you get the full scale of the stack, it is very impressive and quite intimidating. It was very windy, which was concerning as strong winds can be a problem on the final abseil which is a free 60m.
We started the descent down the cliffs which was not much fun. The cliff was very muddy and slippery and felt very exposed, you wouldn't stop if you slipped!. Dad was using walking poles for the approach; we took one each for the descent, which was very useful and I strongly recommend it to anyone considering going down there. Once at the bottom the wind felt better so we racked up and set off.
I took the first pitch which is very straightforward and enjoyable climbing. We both agreed it was a very nice steady introduction to quite an intimidating environment. All the belays on the route are on good stances and well equipped with slings and tat which make it obvious when you’ve arrived.
Dad had the second pitch, but having climbed the route only seven days before with the first crew of his Orkney trip he ran up it! The waves below were quite big and noisy and as the pitch goes round the corner and up the chimney, you soon lose sight and sound of your partner. Three tugs on the rope were my signal to start climbing.
This is a very exciting pitch, with great climbing and amazing exposure. The initial traverse is delicate and sandy, you have to be careful. As with any traverse you wouldn't want to fall on lead or second. You then start up the chimney, where good bridges and jams get you moving. The most difficult move involved getting out on the left wall of the second chimney section. Welcome protection for the leader comes from three stuck cams. After that move the major difficulties are over, good solid climbing follows. You can work up the crask as you go with a #5 Friend. The 3rd and 4th pitch are easier but the rock is not so good. The fulmars also nest here but didn't prove to be too much of a problem for us.
The 5th pitch is a fantastic corner crack on good rock which takes you right to the top. I was glad this pitch fell to me and I really enjoyed it. It has good gear, bridging moves and solid jams. Towards the top you can see right through the stack and out to the sea in the west. As I pulled over the top, the people on the viewpoint cheered and waved as I stood on the summit. Dad was soon up, we took in the views and had a quick bite to eat. However the route was only half done, we had to get back down.
We did it in four abseils. You could do it in three, but we decided shorter more manageable ones would be better due to the wind. The first three went well and the final 60m free abseil is really quite impressive. It starts from the top of the second pitch but you have to be careful in the wind as the ropes could easily be whipped away and jammed. Dad went first but as he got off the ropes, a gust of wind which blew the ropes below me out at a strong angle. They were fine but I had to move quickly to stop them wrapping round the lee side of the stack. It really is an amazing view looking up and see how overhanging the whole thing is! The ropes pulled through easily and we were done!
The walk back up the cliff is better going up but you are still glad to be back on the cliff tops. After a few more celebratory pics, we were back along the path. We rode the bikes back for a quick beer in the café whilst waiting for the 4:30pm return ferry. The last ferry is 6:30pm and a there is a bothy at Rackwick bay in case you miss it!. I am so pleased that I had a weather window to climb such an iconic classic British route, with my old man! Now all we had to do was sail the boat back to Inverness, but that's a different story altogether...