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DMM
Phantom Screwgate

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ISBN:5031290197809
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Glossary - 3 sigma close

Three sigma (or 3σ) is a statistical rule that states that for a data set with a normal distribution (with most of the values close to the average and very few being at the extremes) nearly all values will lie within 3 standard deviations of the mean. In effect this says that by performing this statistical function you can account for 99.73% of all values.

It is impossible to test climbing equipment destined for shops to destruction, for obvious reasons. Traditionally most climbing manufacturers used a fairly arbitrary system of: testing a few from every batch, taking the average, knocking 10% off. If that was higher than the expected strength, the batch was ok. With three sigma testing you can extrapolate from just a few results that 99.73% of a batch will fall between two known values, with the other 0.27% at the extremes.

This then means that 99.865% of a batch is equal to or higher than a known value. In most cases climbing equipment exceeds the stated strength anyway, making the statistical chance of one product out of a tested batch failing below the stated strength negligible. DMM were the first climbing company to implement three sigma testing, but Wild Country and Black Diamond have now followed suit.

Glossary - Hot forged close

Hot forging is a method used to form stock metal into complex shapes. For many years aluminium alloys have been the material of choice for climbing equipment as they are lighter and much easier to manipulate than comparable steels. For decades karabiners and many other products were made using a technique called cold forging, which isn't possible with steel. This essentially involves squashing 'cold' (room temperature) pieces of stock aluminium alloy with a mould, known as a die, under very large pressures until it takes the form of the mould.

Recently manufacturers have started to move towards hot forging which involves heating the alloy in a furnace before forging it. This makes it much more malleable and allows substantially more complex and subtle shapes to be moulded under higher pressures. Both of these techniques are known as drop forging, when huge a huge hammer is 'dropped' onto the material to create the pressure.

The major benefit for the end user is that equipment can be formed using the bare minimum amount of metal required, rather than using more primitive shapes, making it lighter (and in some cases stronger aswell). It also makes the application of heat treatments after the forging much easier to control, increasing consistency and, by extension, safety.

The DMM Phantom Screwgate Karabiner

The Phantom weighs 41.5g and is one of the lightest keylock screwgate biner in the world. It also is very functional and very strong with a major axis strength of 23kN and a gate open strength of 9kN.

The Phantom features smooth steep internal radii to minimise the chances of the karabiner hanging up or of the karabiner being loaded badly, fully anodised finish and an internal rope groove.

  • Hot forged in Wales
  • Marked with unique serial number for full traceability
  • 3 sigma tested
  • Made in UK

Compare Standard Locking Karabiners

BrandModelWeightClean
Nose
Gate Closed
Strength
Gate Open
Strength
Across Gate
Strength
Gate
Opening
Edelrid Pure Slider 42g 23 kN 8 kN 8 kN 18mm
DMM Phantom Screwgate 42g 24 kN 9 kN 9 kN 16mm
Wild Country Neon 43g 23 kN 8 kN 7 kN 16mm
Mammut Element 46g 23 kN 8 kN 8 kN 18mm
DMM Shadow Screwgate 51g 24 kN 9 kN 7 kN 18mm
Wild Country Eos Screwgate 56g 25 kN 10 kN 7 kN 22mm
DMM Shadow Quicklock 56g 24 kN 9 kN 7 kN 17mm
Grivel Sigma Twin Gate 57g 30 kN 11 kN 9 kN 23mm
DMM Aero Offset D 59g 25 kN 9 kN 9 kN 17mm
Wild Country Titan 65g 25 kN 7 kN 7 kN 21mm
DMM

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