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Which rope for me?
The Types
The Outside Double Ropes and Single Ropes
What is a Rope?
A rope is made up of a sheath and a core. The Sheath is the outer, the core is the inner. A tighter/stiffer sheath means that the rope won't handle as well but will be more abrasion resistant and will stop dirt getting into the rope. A looser sheath will be better to handle (tie/untie knots) but will probably wear faster and lead to furring of the sheath. This in turn makes the rope thicker and more difficult to handle, allows damaging dirt and moisture to get into the sheath and it won't run as well in use. There are many different types of core however the more you pay, the more complex the core and the better it will handle and be resistant to twisting and abuse.
Singles or Doubles?
Single ropes are most often used for sports climbing and indoor climbing, though often also used for traditional climbing in areas where routes follow single features or straight lines. Single ropes are often the cheapest, simplest and most importantly lightest choice for most climbers.
Double Ropes/Half Ropes are most often used for traditional climbing and are the most common ropes used in the UK. Double ropes, though heavier, offer several advantages over single ropes. There is the obvious security that comes from having two ropes on different lines of protection. There is the fact that on long and complex pitches double ropes offer the leader more flexibility, reduce rope drag and mean lower impact on first runners in the event of a fall due to the more stretchy nature of the ropes. Lastly, double ropes offer the option of full length retrievable abseils which are very useful in the event of retreat.
Twin Ropes. Not to be confused with double ropes! Twin ropes are ultra skinny and are designed to be used as if the two ropes were in fact a single rope. Ie, both ropes should be clipped into every piece of gear. Individually the ropes are not meant to hold a fall. Twin ropes are highly specialised and the two advantages they offer over other systems are their light weight and the ability to still offer full length abseils. Most often used on big mountains where protection is going be spaced so drag is not an issue but where full length abseils are going to be needed.
What do I consider when buying?
Rope diameter is measured in millimetres with single ropes ranging from 8.9mm through to 10.5mm and double ropes from 8mm to 9mm. A thicker rope will last longer and be more abrasion resistant. A thinner rope will stretch more, offering less impact forces in the event of a fall and be lighter. Warning: Thin Double Ropes of 8mm or so are only used by climbers who want the lightest possible ropes and understand the safety limitations of doing so.
Length (how long is a bit of rope). Single ropes range from 30m to 80m. A 30m single rope would be most often used for indoor climbing or grit outcrop climbing (check the height of your local climbing walls biggest wall before buying). On the continent there are now many sports routes that are more than 25m long so to get up and down again you will need a rope longer than 50m. With double ropes most people will buy 60m lines to offer that little bit extra for climbing up and abseiling down. It is often worth having a 40m pair of double ropes for outcrop climbing that means you won't destroy your longer, more expensive lines climbing on gritstone.
What are the Statistics?
There are a universal set of testing criteria laid out by the UIAA for ropes (they appear on the tag of every rope) but an in depth look is beyond the scope of this article. The most important aspects of UIAA rope testing are below but if you want more technical and in depth information go to the UIAA website
- Falls held: 80kg weight dropped five meters on 2.8m of rope repeatedly until it breaks. More falls a rope takes the better it is.
- Impact force measured in kN. Amount of force exerted on your top runner when you fall on to it. This indicates how stretchy a rope is and how much it absorbs shock when you fall onto it (very important when trad climbing). The lower the number the better.
- Static elongation. 80kg is hung on one meter of rope. The rope is given a percentage figure of how much it stretched. This lets you know how much the rope will stretch when you are lowering someone or abseiling - only really important if you are going to be jumaring or hauling.
Dry treated or non dry treated?
Wet or frozen ropes are heavy. Wet or frozen ropes are weaker as the rope is less dynamic. Dry coatings mean the rope will resist the ingress of dirt. A wise investment.
Colour?
Don't laugh, very important. Colours should be significantly different to aid identification, communication and also make the rope visible in the beam of a head torch at night.
Price?
As with everything, you get what you pay for. When you pay more you generally get lighter ropes, ropes with more longevity, better abrasion resistance and better handling.
When purchasing a rope there will always be a compromise - weight/length/rope longevity etc. Don't make a compromise on your safety. If you have any questions please contact us via email, phone or drop into the Hathersage Rock Room for expert advice.
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