Hold-all. One or two large duffle bags that can withstand yak and porter transport are needed. About 100 litres is the most useful size. Take a padlock for international travel and for local transport. We recommend The North Face duffles.

The North Face XL Duffle

Large rucksack. Simple and light is the key here. POD Black Ice is ideal.

POD Black Ice

Day trekking rucksack. Many good models from Berghaus, Black Diamond and POD.

Day Rucksacks

Dry bags are very useful. Look for Outdoor Designs or Mountain Equipment.

Dry Bags

Plastic Climbing Boots. La Sportiva Olympus Mons is the warmest and lightest technical high altitude boot. Scarpa Omegas are good to about 7000m. Correct fitting of these boots takes at least 1 hr so allow the time for this. When fitted correctly they are brilliant. We also stock the classic Asolos AFS8000. These are warm and climb well. We know of a guide who used them for nearly everything for 10 years up to 7500m

Mountaineering Boots

Trekking Boots that are durable enough to cover rocky and snowy ground up to base camp –Asolo, Aku, Hanwag or Scarpa have several suitable models depending on fit. If you are using gaiters the OR Crocodiles or Mtn. Eqpt. Matrix are superior in fit and durability compared to standard gaiters. Likewise, rubber randed Eiger gaiters are the strongest of thier type.

Hill Walking Boots

Socks. Take plenty for both your mountain boots and trek boots. Thorlo are very comfortable, warm and non itchy. Take a new pair for summit day as a treat

Thorlo

Base Layer. The choice is between Merino wool which is warm and light and doesn’t smell even if worn for several days or fast wicking and drying synthetics such as polypropylene.

Base Layer

Mid Layer. Mid layer fleece jackets/ soft shells. One with a hood is more versatile. Rab Vapour Rise and Mtn Eqpt Compressor Jkt make great second layers. A Mountain Cap and Powerstretch balaclava are also musts.

Photon Hoodie Mid Layer

Shell clothing. Jacket and pants/salopettes. Full specification mountain jacket such as the Mountain Equipment Kongur and XCR salopettes is needed. Go for a bright colour to improve the summit posing photographs.

Shell jackets and Waterproof pants

Down suit or Jacket and salopettes. The choice is a personal one the former being  warmer and lighter but a bit less flexible as the jacket can’t be worn separately. In our view a Rab down suit is the best available.

Down mitts and booties. Mitts, although cumbersome, are needed for days above 8000m. Booties are a great comfort in the tent but are NOT designed to be worn outside.

Hands. Gore-Tex/fleece mitts, Light inner gloves, fleece inner gloves. The OR Verglass mitts are warm hardwearing and exceptional value. Black Diamond guide gloves allow more dexterity.

Gloves

Crampons. 12 Point crampons such as the Grivel G12 are the most versatile. Either step in or strap on systems work well on high altitude boots and are easy to use even with gloves/cold hands. We stock extension bars for extra long boots

Grivel G12

Ice axe. An axe such as the Grivel Air Tech Evo is superb. It is super light weight and is good on steeper technical ground as well. The DMM Cirque is a great value alternative.

Ice Axes

Trekking Poles are very useful on glacier approaches and can help a lot on easy slopes carrying loads. Leki are recommended.

Leki Carbon are recommended

Climbing harness. Black Diamond Alpine Bod or DMM Alpine are best. They are simple and light and you can remain tied on when answering the call of nature.

Alpine Bod or DMM Alpine

Helmet. A helmet that can accommodate a hat or balaclava is needed, so the adjustable Petzl Ecrin makes a good choice. Lt/wt foam helmets may not survive the yak journey to base camp.

Petzl Ecrin

Eyes. Good quality Glacier glasses and Sun glasses. Snow blindness can not only ruin your trip, but can permanently damage your eyes.

Sunscreen. Factor 30-40, and lip block.

Hat. A sun hat such as a Tilley is good. A baseball hat will not protect your neck, so a Buff or equivalent is essential.

headwear

Sleeping bag. Sometimes two sleeping bags are needed to avoid having to carry one up and down the mountain several times. The Rab Summit 1100 is excellent. Check out carefully any sleeping bags that are purely expedition bags as sometimes, although warm, they are intended for Polar travel using sledges and are too heavy for mountaineering.

Sleeping Bags

Sleeping mat.  Thermarest /Ridge Rest. Insulation from the ground is even more important than the sleeping bag. Thermarests are softer to sleep on, but the latter can not get punctured. The best combination, especially for sleeping on snow is to take both.

Therm-a-Rest

Head Torch, bulbs and Batteries. Taking two is a good idea. One for use in the tent and Base Camp etc and one for on the mountain. The Petzl Tikka and Zipka led models are great, but on the mountain a Myo XP or BD Icon would be a better solution.

Petzl

Water bottles. Nalgene is best especially if an insulated jacket is used. A steel thermos flask is also useful but a bit heavy. Avoid drinking bladders as the pipe will freeze, even if insulated.

Nalgene

Knife. Swiss Army knife Leatherman or Gerber multitool.

Pocket Tools

Pee bottle. Nalgene is the best for this too, as for obvious reasons you must have one that does not leak!

Nalgene

Passport &Visa, Tickets, Money, Passport photos, Personal first aid kit