A little while back I had an amazing evening going ground up on the brilliant Block and Tackle (E6 6b) at Higgar Tor. A few safe but fun falls were taken before topping out and I left the crag buzzing from the sheer fun and quality of the climbing.
Meanwhile, work colleague and crusher Nathan Lee had a similar ground-up experience on the harder and even more classic Balance It Is (E7 6c) just across the valley at Burbage South. Chatting about it the next day, we came to the conclusion that Neil Foster routes are awesome.
It did start me thinking what makes them so good? Well normally a stunning line (are they all arêtes?), good gear but hard moves above it, and great quality rock. Only a few days after that evening I ran into Neil in the shop. I explained the current trend and asked “what would be your top 5 first ascents on grit?”.
The answer has lead to a great grit season for myself, also resulting in an incredible ticklist that MUST be completed. Below is what Neil came back with, someone out there must have repeated them all. I have one to go but the obvious ultimate challenge is all of them in a day! Hmmm maybe not for me but let's see…
James Turnbull with Neil FosterThe amazing thing about this list is there are so many other stunning routes out there from Neil not on it. Ulysses or Bust (E5 6b) at Curbar, Carpe Diem (E6 6c) at Stanage and Linkline (E6 6c) at Higgar Tor just to mention a few.
Many of Neil’s routes go unclimbed or forgotten, why is this? Firstly: Neil is so modest that he never even gave stars for his routes, allowing other people to judge the quality. Also, around the same time, a certain Mr Dawes was picking even bigger plums a little less quietly.
Oddly enough I think having amazing, hard routes at Britain's most popular crag, Stanage, doesn't seem quite right. Who do you know who headpoints at the Popular End (other than me!). Last but not least a lot of these routes are in a mythical grade spectrum.
It seems to be common place to try to onsight anything up to E5, but if a route is E7 this is definitely headpoint material (for all but the best). E6 seems a little lost, especially if it is generally considered a “safe”(ish!) route. Too hard to onsight, not hard enough for a head point? These routes are amazing! whatever your style, give them a go. Here goes:
Make it Snappy, E6 6b, Gardoms
Neil must have been laughing all the way home after finding this one. Good gear is placed at the start of the difficulties and then full commitment up the incredible arête. For me the crux of the route was to leave the gear, a hard undercut move allows a standing position (it doesn't climb like an arête at all!) next a powerful series of moves and rockovers leads away from the gear before a slap/stretch to the break and gear, ooofff! Beautiful, bold yet safe, forceful climbing.
This was the first ticked off the big five and I was very pleased to flash it with good beta from Dave Brown. A must for any aspiring E6 grit leader. With it being just to the left of the famous E3 Crocodile and slightly unnerving flexy hold it had to be “Make it Snappy!”
Block and Tackle, E6 6b, Higgar Tor
How can such an obvious line be left alone? Neil has a few awesome first ascents on this mighty crag, but he chose this one for the list. Starting in the gully you quickly reach the first break and once again find bomber gear. The steepness of the crag quickly becomes apparent and the next section up the arête is amazing. To the sanctuary of the next break, burly slapping, heel hooks and commitment are needed. A stunning gritstone evening going ground-up on this cracker left me so psyched for more of the same. This route was the reason I got in touch with Neil about his list. So much fun! (see the last blog for more on this)
Neil on the first ascent in 1994, photo by Ian Smith9 O’Clock Watershed, E6 6c, Stanage Popular
I have thought about this one for years, long before I even thought I may get good enough to climb it. There was a stunning picture of Neil on it from an old Stanage guide and then the story of the first ascent in the next. What’s even more impressive is that in the picture, (shown here) Neil has no belayer! Dave Simmonite belayed the first ascent then ran round the top to get the shot while Neil posed with a tied off rope in a vest! Gnarly! He must have thought I was a wuss in my helmet, with a pad and a belayer.
The original photo by Dave SimmoniteI also loved the story that they both got up early to get the route done before work, hence the name.
This must be the most neglected of all his routes, the line was filthy when I first abbed off it. It is a proud line at the most popular cliff in the country, crazy to think it appears to have had only a handful of ascents.
After a brush and a go on a rope one misty evening I could just about do “the move” but it was very hard and the fall would be a nasty clatter. The conditions put me off and I left it, but didn't forget. A week later and in true Foster fashion I had rallied some troops and met at the crag at 6.40am. Brilliantly I then received a text “Hi James, heard you're going to try my route. What time and can I come to take photos? Neil” 10 minutes later, Neil joins us. I felt honoured to have the first ascensionist there, especially so early! What a hero! I’d better not blow it now.
James Turnbull on The 9 O'Clock Watershed - photos by Neil FosterEasy moves lead to the break below the overlap and good gear. A great undercut move leads to a good flatty, a long lock to the crappy sloper. This morning it all feels great. Foot up, slap, done! This route went from feeling impossible to really steady, but that’s grit. All done by 8am. I really hope this spurs on more ascents, Neil described it as “small but perfectly formed”. I couldn't agree more.
Winter's Grip, E6 6b, Millstone
When I asked Neil for this list I was worried he may put this one on it, the guidebooks description made it sound terrifying with the only gear coming from hand placed blade pegs. It didn't sound very reassuring, even scarier was the thought of Neil soloing the first ascent.
Winter's Grip follows one the the many proud Millstone arêtes, however this one is a little smaller than its famous neighbours. Neil said I should go ground up but I bottled it and another headpoint was on the cards. Once again the hard working Andy had prepared the rope in advance and we set to it. We figured out the moves quickly, the pegs we decided “might hold?!?”. We both top-roped it cleanly and I quickly lead it afterwards, it went very smoothly and was nearly a little bit of an anti-climax. However the excitement was to come, Andy stepped up.
James Turnbull climbing Winter's gripAndy, who had top-roped the route a number of times cleanly, clearly didn't have his head in the right place this time. I could feel the trembles through the rope. He climbed up to the first peg then launched into the crux: hand up the arête, left foot to hand, left hand crimp, high right smear on the arête…. shaking, we watched on, terrified but relieved as he made it to the rest and the second peg. However as Andy tried to calm down he felt himself toppling over backwards from the rest. Frantic scrambling ensued and somehow he pulled himself back onto the rock shouting “DON'T FALL OFF!” (sound advice) Anyway he didn't and then he sketched to the top. Sorry about that Andy - but you did! Another awesome route ticked off from an awesome list.
Balance It Is, E7 6c, Burbage South
The big one. The hardest, and strangely, probably the most repeated. That will be because it is at the classic hard grit crag. “Balance it is” is currently the only route unticked for me on this list. It may always be, but I’m damn sure going to try it one day. I just need some cold winter conditions back!
Balance It Is climbs the stunning left arête (yep they are all arêtes!) of one of the main buttresses at Burbage South. You start up a crack belonging to Boggart left hand (E4 6a) but just before the niche you blast out left and layback powerfully and with great balance up the arête. Near the top used to be a small slot for an RP4 but this has since blown due to many a spark-creating whipper. This now means the final run out is even more scary - however, once again, with these brilliant routes, you won't hit anything if you decide to take the ride.
There are many great videos of people taking said whipper and I think it was a fine effort of our very own Nathan Lee to climb it ground up, albeit with a battle. 7c sport grade has been mentioned so it's not surprising this is no pushover and may well stay unticked, but I can't wait to try!
This one must sit with pride of place on a stunning list of first ascents from Neil.
So there you have it: an amazing list of amazing routes on amazing rock all climbed by an amazing climber. You can tick them off over at UKC on their ticklists. Neil is a legend and mega nice guy too, so do him the honour of climbing his routes, all in a season? in a week? in a day? All in a lifetime? I’ll be happy with just trying them all. What would Neil do?