Feeding The Rat-Getting ready for Winter Climbing

Every year winter comes, some climbers go to the wall, boulder and moan about the weather. Others get excited for snow, check weather forecasts and moan just as much. I personally get nervous as winter approaches.

"I have to climb that scary stuff now"

"What if I fall off?"

"Will I miss all the good conditions and climb nothing this season?"

This is the main fear for me, I check conditions and weather for Scotland every few hours during winter. The fear that either it will be "in nick" on my days off (crap, a long drive is coming) or fear that it won’t be (phew! but I do want to climb it). This makes the first winter hit of the season very important for me. Knowing I have one under my belt means I can relax. Usually I will do something in December just to feed the rat, but no joy this year.  With the end of January, approaching I was getting nervous.

Luckily Simon had booked days off and committed to going so I couldn’t let him down, even though the forecast was not looking exactly "Mint"!

Pre-dawn starts - standard!

We headed straight for Coire an t-Sneachda in the Northern Cairngorms as it seemed to have the best conditions. After the normal late arrival and sleep in the van we head in early. It only just gets light as we reach the Coire itself. We both voice ideas of climbing hard, but thankfully Si says to me "shall we do a grade IV for the first route of the season?" Phew, we are on the same wave length. We romped up Patey’s Route (IV, 5) which was nearly in too good a condition, totally banked out with snow with only a few tricky bulges. Still it was fun and a classic first tick.

Simon on Patey's Route

It had already clouded over and started gently snowing as we traversed across to Pygmy Ridge (IV, 5) which was a brilliant little route with exciting high winds on the final pitch blowing the ropes sideways!

We headed down a nicely full Aladdin’s Couloir only to run into friends Will Sim and Mike Thomas. After some lunch and banter we decided conditions are good and time to up the ante, Mike joins us as Will and his girlfriend grab another route.

We head for the great looking corner of Damnation (VI, 6). On arriving at the main pitch I was told to lead on. I explained I would have a look but if there is no gear I won’t like it! heading up I looked up the main corner to see a lovely snow patch right up the corner, looks like easy climbing, but with absolutely no gear.

I like climbing with Mike because he is as modest as he is talented. "Mike, this looks like your lead!”  I pass Mike the sharp end and he says "Don’t see why I’ll do any better than you?” Five minutes later Mike shouts safe and belays me and Si up a brilliant pitch. It was in very easy nick but he must have faced a 12-15 metre run out. I should have lead it, but was far from disheartened, just pysched! Awesome route with awesome mates!

Back down at the bags people packed up to head home but as we went to follow suit someone said "must be time for one more?”. We exchanged glances and 2 extended pitches later and Doctors Choice (IV, 4) finished the day off nicely with plenty of day light left for the walk down.

We spent the evening in the pub having one too many and hearing about Will’s recent hard routes, talk about modesty! The next morning we arrive from the van a little later and rather more sluggishly as it rains constantly. after the damp walk in, it turned to snow the higher we went. We stood in the bottom of the very windy, snowy Coire, unsure of what to do or even where the buttresses were hiding. The game ‘Simon Says’ seems to be apparent on this trip and with "Stirling Bomber- your lead" I do as I’m told. Stirling Bomber (V, 7) turns out to be the route of the trip.

The huge amount of powder on the ledges make it hard to even leave the ground. After some huffing, puffing and digging I make it to the main event, the back and foot chimney. This ends up being amazing climbing. there are good hooks and gear on the left and a (very) tall person’s back and foot. As I work myself higher, inch by inch, all of a sudden I have to release myself from the relative comfort of the chimney and make hard moves right, out of the chimney and into a sort of groove. I imagine this to be full of nice turf or névé sometimes, but after pushing my sideways torqued Nomic right down I commit to topping out through near-vertical powder. Mega! Si follows grinning from ear to ear! AMAZING!!

There's a climber in there somewhere!

Then it was Simon’s lead and so we headed back over to Aladdin’s Buttress to climb a great looking route, The Lamp (V, 6).  The snow eases, winds drop and Simon leads a cracking main pitch. It is steep with good hooks and (generally) good gear. A moment of fear kicks in as, once again, bomber turf is buried in soft powder, all the gear hidden with it. He kept it together well and cautiously moved along the strange rock ramp to the belay. I lead on up another easier but still brilliant pitch to finish the day and my trip. Awesome!!

Simon on the Lamp

As I proceeded to take the long drive home alone and spill coffee all over my van. Simon stays for the weekend to meet Rich. By the sounds of it I got off lightly as Saturday was gale force winds. There was visibility and very wet but they managed to climb The Seam (IV, 5) and Invernookie (III, 4). Sunday was raining so hard and +5˚C in the car park with little change forecast with height. We called an early bath, that’s the way it is sometimes in Scotland.

This trip really fed the rat and has relaxed my nerves of missing conditions, for now at least! Being retailers it was a brilliant gear testing trip for both of us geeky climbers. Reviews to follow, but the highlights were the amazingly breathable Rab Strata and Patagonia Nano-Air Hoodies. Both great as a versatile midlayer or on their own on approaches.

A Haglofs Roc Jacket, the soon to be released Patagonia Ascentionist Rucksack. Also a couple of old faithfuls such as my beloved Scarpa Phantom Guides and Sterling Photon ropes, the only thing to need no drying! This has got to be the best reason for getting a new pair of ropes, the dry treatment actually works!

Enough geeky talk, cracking start to the winter. Let’s hope we all keep the rat well fed!!

James Turnbull modelling the Rab Strata Hoodie.

James Turnbull works in Outside in Hathersage. He's quite upset that he'll miss the rest of the Scottish Winter season as he's on honeymoon in New Zealand. Boo-Hoo.