So it's been a while since my last blog. Sorry about that. As I mentioned many moons ago, I was about to become a father and hence the climbing may slow down a little.
So now I am a father, and my daughter Isla is bloody ace, but this is a climbing blog. If you want to see one of my billion photos of her you will have to come in the shop and see me.
We hosted a lecture in the shop by Mr Energizer Bunny himself, Tim Emmett before Isla was born. As a father we asked him if it had slowed him down, his reply was simple “Dads crush!”. Hence the title.
My climbing has slowed and changed, but I wouldn't say suffered. Time constraints turned me into a boulderer for a little while. Embarrassingly I quite enjoyed it and, for once, stuck with one discipline and I think I saw improvements.
Ginger Rich clamping the prow of Boyager, font 7A+, burbage NorthMany of the Peak classics I had previously thought too hard for me got sent, which was cool! The Terrace (7C), T-Crack (7B), Late Junction (7B), Electrical Storm (7B), Purple Haze (7A+) all got ticked for the first time. Things I'd barely scraped up like Submergance (7C), Sparks (7B), Boyager (7A+) and Monochrome (7A) went with relative ease. It was nice to have felt the extra power from just bouldering. Unfortunately I don't feel like I used it on any real routes and I’m sure it's faded now, booo!
However bouldering season is over and it's time for trad! Of course we headed to Stoney, the greatest crag on earth. We re-familiarised ourselves with the classics including Scoop Wall, the easiest E2 on the Windy Ledge in our eyes (or is that E3, as the BMC Grading Squad seem to think?). Not many big things have been climbed of interest since the ropes came out. However it was great to reclimb some amazing routes such as Asp (E3 6a), Tippler Direct (E3 6a), Chameleon (E4 6a) and other mega classics. The other reason for this blog is for once I have some awesome photos for you, since the one and only POD (Pete O’Donovan) was on hand to take some great pictures. Keep an eye out for (yet another) great selective guide book to the Peak District from him.
James on the classic Left Unconquerable, E1 5b, Stanage
Awesome finishing jugs - I couldn't resist the pose!
Surprisingly tricky moves above the roof of Flying Buttress Direct, HVS 5b, Stanage
James cruising through the crux of Chameleon, E4 6a, StanageSo now it's summer it means it's time for lime! If you ever struggle for motivation the brand new BMC Peak Limestone guide book is now here! The greatest guide ever written to the greatest crags on earth! You lucky, lucky people. I will try my best to do as advised by Mr Emmett and next time, hopefully, have some more exciting things to write about.
Thanks to Pete O'Donovan for the photos!